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From the Publisher What is kokedama? There is something intrinsically inviting and soothing about the form of kokedama, through the juxtaposition of its controlled and wild aspects. It is a manifestation of wabi-sabi, or the Japanese art of finding beauty in imperfection. All the elements which keep bonsai from falling into obscurity are also present in kokedama, but in a much more accessible format. Economical design, which seeks to use a minimum of components, along with displaying natural processes and naturally occurring objects, is becoming increasingly mainstream. As more people choose to see the beauty in the roughness of nature, the room in their lives for meaningless clutter diminishes. As a hobby, the art of making kokedama is as rewarding as it gets. The act of putting our hands in direct contact with natural materials literally grounds us. The wrapping process is very meditative; the action requires bilateral coordination – that is, to use both hands simultaneously and independently. And because both hands are required to wrap, and each must perform separate and independent actions, it is very difficult to think about anything else. One becomes completely present in the moment. Additionally, when creating the heavily wrapped style, there is also a meditative quality to the repetitive but nuanced action of wrapping string around a sphere. It is almost hypnotic. Many amateur kokedama artists use the art as a way to unwind after hectic days at work, or frenetically busy periods in their lives. The action of making a kokedama. HOW TO MAKE KOKEDAMA: Sheet moss 1 Lie your kokedama on his side and place the biggest piece of sheet moss over the top side. 2a Apply enough staples to the outside edges to hold the moss in place. 2b Alternatively, tie on enough nylon fishing line to hold the moss firmly onto the ball. 3 Continue to add and attach pieces of sheet moss until your kokedama is completely covered. Zantedeschia ‘Blaze’ Calla lily Bulbs, corms and tubers plant profile Commonly referred to as a calla lily, he isn’t a true lily; he is a distant relative, in fact a tuberous perennial. He has no central stem; instead he grows his lovely long-stemmed leaves in clumps directly from his tubers just below the surface. Keep this in mind when making up the kokedama and don’t bury him too deep into the ball. Also allow room for new shoots by not wrapping the string too closely around the leaf stems. Once he has finished flowering, his leaves will die down and he will become dormant. Growing conditions He would normally grow in marshy or swampy ground in the wild so he likes his roots to be constantly wet. Because of the increased exposure to air when hanging, it is important to counteract any drying effect this would have by making a very moisture-rich soil, using plenty of moss and even a layer of coconut fibre if possible. Use a synthetic twine to avoid disintegration. The constant moisture will rot natural fibres very rapidly. Water and food Keep him wet and soggy. Soak as soon as the outside shows signs of drying. Soak overnight once a month during flowering period. Fertilize regularly with a good quality organic fertilizer. When he has a decent bunch of flowers, water once a week; before that stick to once a fortnight or less to avoid long flimsy stems. If you want to keep him and have flowers a second time, the tubers have to be cared for over his dormant period. As his leaves begin to yellow and wilt, reduce watering frequency and eventually allow the ball to completely dry out. Leave the ball outside until autumn (fall), when the new growth period begins, ensuring the plant is not frosted. Bring indoors and slowly increase available water until he has plenty of leaves and flowers, then resume regular saturation. Family name: Araceae Type: Clumping tuber Light: Moderate to bright Watering: High Growth: speed Moderate Pets: Highly toxic to cats and dogs Common concern: Temperature fluctuation SOIL RECIPE: 3 parts coir 1 part compost 1 portion water crystals Gallery Herb garden kokedama A herb garden kokedama using thyme, marjoram and variegated oregano. Olea europaea Olive Trees and shrubs plant profile. Asparagus densiflorus ‘Myersii’ Foxtail fern Asparagus ‘Myersii’ and davallia ferns hanging in a downstairs hang out; davallia and Boston ferns complete the tranquil desk of artist Amanda Fitzsimmons.
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